Upstairs at Kaibo’s oeuvre is designed by people who understand that taste is only one of the elements. Thus, the understated whites and island woods of the balcony are offset with coloured glass table dressings, each underlit with uber-modern halogen (the units also come in handy as flashlights to help read the menu).
The soundtrack is equally impressive: laid-back, acid jazz soundscapes, a little Finley Quaye, groovy remixes of classics by the likes of Stone Roses, and - most importantly, perhaps - a low thrum of chatter punctuated by laughter. The sounds, in other words, of people having a good time. And the upstairs balcony has a gorgeous view, most spectacularly at sunset.
Of course, the food is what’s central and not long after we’re seated we are brought an amuse bouche of cauliflower cream soup. It’s an intriguingly velvet way to soothe the tastebuds, creating something of a blank canvas for the artistry - hopefully - to come.
Tasting menu
There is a tasting menu available, which pairs various wines with a number of dishes, but we opt to order a la carte and go for an unobtrusively fresh Cooper Hill Pinot Gris as an accompaniment.
As the weary sun finally yawns over the horizon, our first course arrives. My appetiser, a local Caribbean spiny lobster spring roll accompanied by a cucumber salad and sweet scotch bonnet jam plus two quotation mark licks of a creamy sauce, is presented beautifully on a slab of slate, and I feel somewhat guilty about cutting into it and wrecking the picture - for all of two milliseconds. As expected, the spring roll is light and summer-fresh; the pepper jelly adds even more sweetness to a starter of some aplomb.
There are, however, fireworks on the plate of my dining companion in the form of a borderline extraordinary Cayman salt and pepper squid dish. It’s an ingredient that in the wrong hands can become a rubbery farrago and an inedible mess, but Chef Laurence Tham is an expert and has created something fantastic. The squid is tender, the salt and pepper seasoning lively and the crunch of cassava crisps and chestnut offset by earthy mushroom notes. It’s a dish with roots in France and the Caribbean and with some wit also riffs on the English tradition of fish and chips. Mostly, though, it’s delicious.
The staff are attentive but also know when to withdraw and give the diners space. That kind of attention to professionalism gives Kaibo a deserved reputation as a classy, relaxed restaurant that stands with some of the finest in the Cayman Islands.
Scallop stars
The entrees arrive in due, er, course. My companion’s white wine linguini with seared sea scallops, Cayman cherry tomatoes, asparagus and Florida tiger shrimp is undeniably tasty if a little sauce-heavy for Italian traditionalists. The sweet, baby scallops are the star here, as often is the case, and here the Pinot Gris really assists with a slight citrus edge to refresh.
My entree owes its genesis to more Oriental climes, with a distinct feel of Thai flavours throughout. The baked grouper is topped with a cashew nut crust which certainly adds a snap to the firm, melty texture of the fish. It’s served with snow peas, a lemongrass veloute and - not to be underestimated, this - a great side dish of fragrant coconut rice topped with a sprinkle of scallion. And although I had been eyeing the pan-seared bass dish as a main, I’m happy at my decision - although next time (and there will be one), there’s a striped bass with my name on it.
We don’t take a great deal of convincing to share a chocolate cake with ice cream. It’s light, sticky in the middle and nearly a fondant. My sweet tooth isn’t as developed as my companion so all I can say is that it went down well with a coffee and if I’d been a little brighter I’d have asked for a punchy aged-barrel rum from their impressive selection. When I grow up, I want a drinks cabinet like that; it’s pure alchemy.
Residents of George Town and West Bay might be interested to note that a water taxi from Safe Haven is also in operation, although we opted for a 45-minute drive from GT. Whichever way you get there, it’s going to be worth it.